Coily Hair (Type 4A, 4B & 4C): How to Nourish and Handle It

Coily hair is the most versatile type there is, and it holds sculptural styles nothing else can. It's also the most demanding: type 4 hair is naturally dry and fragile, so it rewards moisture and gentle handling and punishes neglect quickly. If you're not sure this is your type yet, start by finding your hair type or try our quick hair type finder.

What is type 4 (coily) hair?

In the widely used Andre Walker system, type 4 is coily hair - sometimes called kinky - forming tight coils, springs, or zigzags from root to tip. The strand grows from a flat, sharply curved follicle, so it bends many times over a short distance. (Like every hair trait, this pattern is largely set by your genetics.)

All those bends have two big effects. First, scalp oil almost never travels down the strand, so type 4 hair is the driest of all and needs moisture added from outside. Second, each tight bend is a potential weak point, which makes coily hair the most fragile. It also shrinks dramatically: curly hair shrinks some, but type 4 can dry to a quarter of its stretched length.

Coily hair isn't hard to grow - it's hard to keep. The whole game is retaining length by keeping strands moisturised and protected so they don't snap.

4A, 4B and 4C: the differences

All three are coily; they differ mainly in coil shape, definition, and how much they shrink.

Type 4A

Soft, springy coils in a defined "S" pattern, roughly the circumference of a crochet needle. It holds moisture a little better than 4B or 4C - though it's still dry compared to looser types.

Type 4B

Strands that bend in sharp "Z" angles rather than curling, with a fluffy, cottony texture. It's densely packed, shrinks up to about 70%, and drinks up moisture - creams and butters help it clump and define.

Type 4C

The tightest, densest coils, with a zigzag pattern and little to no visible definition unless styled. It shrinks the most - up to 75% or more - and is the driest and most fragile of all.

The pros and cons of coily hair

The pros

• Unmatched volume and fullness. Coils pack together for dramatic body no other type comes close to.
• The most versatile type. Twists, braids, locs, afros, twist-outs, bantu knots, stretched styles - type 4 holds them all.
• Holds shape and sculptural styles. The tight pattern grips definition and structure other hair can't keep.
• Natural protection. Its density shields the scalp from sun.
• Shrinkage as a feature. The same hair can look short and rounded or long and stretched, depending on how you wear it.

The cons

• The driest type. Moisture must be added and sealed constantly.
• Fragile and breakage-prone. Rough handling snaps strands.
• High shrinkage. Great for versatility, frustrating when you want to see length.
• Tangles and single-strand knots. Coils wrap on themselves as they grow.
• Time- and product-intensive. Washing, moisturising, and styling take real time and generous product.

How to nourish and handle it

Coily hair thrives on deep moisture, sealing, and low manipulation - the opposite of straight hair, which wants light products and frequent washing.

Cleanse gently and rarely

• Wash about once a week or every other week with a sulfate-free cleanser, or co-wash between washes.
• Pre-poo first - coat hair in oil or conditioner before shampooing to protect it from stripping.
• Focus cleansing on the scalp; let the suds rinse gently through the lengths.

Moisturise and seal (the LOC method)

• Deep-condition every wash, ideally with a little heat or a steamer so it penetrates.
• On damp hair, layer in order: Liquid (water or a water-based leave-in), Oil (like jojoba or castor to seal), then Cream or butter (like shea) to lock it all in. Some prefer LCO - try both.
• Heavier butters and oils that would flatten straight hair are exactly right here.

Detangle with patience

• Detangle only when hair is wet and saturated with conditioner.
• Work in small sections, from the ends up, with fingers or a wide-tooth comb.
• Never comb or brush type 4 hair dry - it's the fastest route to breakage.

Protect and retain length

• Wear protective styles - twists, braids, buns - to tuck away fragile ends and reduce daily manipulation.
• Sleep on satin or silk, or in a bonnet, every night to prevent moisture loss and friction.
• Go easy on heat, and avoid tight styles that pull on your edges - constant tension there causes lasting damage.
• Trim regularly to clear single-strand knots and split ends before they travel up the strand.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Letting it dry out. Skipping moisture and sealing is the number-one cause of breakage on type 4 hair.
• Combing or brushing it dry. Always detangle wet instead.
• Over-washing. Frequent shampooing strips already-dry coils.
• Tight, high-tension styles. Constant pulling on the edges and hairline leads to thinning and traction damage.
• Using light "volumising" products. Type 4 hair wants rich creams and butters, not featherweight formulas made for fine straight hair.

Coily hair asks for the most, but it gives the most back. Moisturise and seal, handle it gently, and protect it day and night. If you want a routine matched to your exact pattern and porosity, Hairmony reads your hair from a photo and builds one for you.